The phone we do most coding on is an older Motorola Droid, running Android 2.3. It works great, has alot of the sensors and features we code to, and is inexpensive.
Here its mounted on a Glock 17.
We took a car holder, and mounted it to a picatinny flashlight mount. Works great, except for on a carbine like the Bushmaster or Bullpup. Here is the mount, with the upper removed to attach the phone holder.
We drilled out a bit of the phone holder (pictured below in the lower right corner) to give the camera visibility.
Here is the final assembly. Sorry its sideways, we'll figure that out sooner or later...
Here is the phone mounted on a long rifle. This is a bit trickier to work around the existing scope's parallax and reticle, but it works and is quite effective.
To make this mount, we took another picatinny mount - for mounting on a scope with a 1" tube, and added a plastic (or wood) dowel. The phone's mount is then bolted to the dowel and holds the phone in various adjustable positions. It also lets us change the 'view' of the phone to compensate for the scope's parallax. The dowel is covered in the cool "flaming" duct tape, below.
On carbines we need to adjust the height of the mount... stay tuned for that one. In most cases though, we can do a side or "pistol" mounting like below. Works great.
Same situation with this Bullpup - we put it on the side (left-hand shooting) to allow us to use both the SmartScope and existing HUD.
Definitely adds a 'tacticool' look, right?
It surprised us how easy it is to 'zero' the scope. Select 'menu' -> "Display Setup" and then starting at the 'zero' mark with your finger, trace out on the screen how big to make the reticle. So easy to zoom in and out, when you've located where the rifle is hitting, very simple to touch that point on the screen and 'draw' out the size of the reticle.
More ideas or suggestions? We are also working on an attachment that mounts directly to the eyepiece of a scope, like the iphone's "iscope" attachment (http://theiscope.com/wordpress/?page_id=8). Don't know anyone who has actually used one of these, but the parallax problem would be tough to deal with. That is why we went with the dowel.